If you want to get under the salty skin of Cornwall’s rugged shoreline and immerse yourself in the coastal community, there’s nowhere better to head than the beachside village of Mawgan Porth – less than 10 miles from Padstow.
Once the territory of a few hardy surfers, dog walkers and a local scene entrenched in the coastal and farming lifestyle, this rustic little village has become a popular spot with tourists and celebs looking for an authentic slice of Cornish paradise.
With the likes of Cate Blanchett building multi-million pound mansions on the cliffs, it’s become somewhat of a Hollywood-On-Sea, but at the heart of Mawgan Porth there’s still a tight-knit community holding onto traditions that run deep.
Despite its diminutive size, this little hamlet cut into the Menalhyl Valley has everything you need on a seaside sojourn: a vast, wave-lashed beach, cafés and restaurants, clifftop spas, swimming pools, a surf school and hire outlet, and an eclectic huddle of shops where you can get your hands on everything from beach gear to fine art and local crafts.
Wild and mind-bogglingly beautiful, Mawgan Porth’s long, sandy beach is at the heart of the community. Whether you want to hit the waves with expert tuition, pack up a gourmet picnic, join in beach yoga or get Grandma down to the low-tide mark in a big-wheel beach chair, there’s literally everything you need seconds from the shoreline. And that includes a large car park, making beach access a breeze.
On sunny days it’s no surprise that windbreaks, beach tents and bucket-and-spade brigades litter the golden sands. But slink beyond the crowds to seek secret low-tide coves, rock pools filled with starfish, crabs and anemones, and rugged cliffs reigned by sea birds, sea pinks and salt-hardy shrubs.
Whether you’re looking for family fun or wild romance, action or relaxation, shopping or surfing, Mawgan Porth boasts plenty of things to do. Just a short hop from your cottage in Padstow or holiday home in Porthcothan, it’s up to you if you spend a day, or your entire holiday here.
Home to some of Cornwall’s most consistent swell and best surf schools, there are few better places to hit the waves. The surf is less crowded than nearby Harlyn and Newquay, making it an ideal location for learners to get to grips with standing up in the whitewater. Then, on top wave days, there are a-frame peaks for the experts.
If you want to become king of the waves, there are no better instructors than the team of passionate, enthusiastic instructors at Kingsurf Surf School, while next door, Betty’s Surf Shop is the go-to for beach gear from board hire to wetsuits and wax.
Soak up eye-popping scenery as you follow the cliff-tops on a two-mile walk to Watergate Bay, keeping your eyes peeled for seabirds, seals and dolphins along the way. Or, head in the other direction towards Trevose Lighthouse, on a stroll to see the giant rock stacks of Bedruthan Steps – dubbed Britain’s equivalent of Australia’s Twelve Apostles. Keep going along the coast path and it’s only 4.5km to the sublime shores of Porthcothan.
If you prefer an inland stroll or the weather’s too wild for the coast path, turn your back on the beach and follow the footpath to St Mawgan. The route traces a burbling stream, tunnelling through woodland until you emerge in a bucolic village with a 13th-century church, Japanese garden and historic country inn.
Indulge in a spa experience that embraces the elements at Cornwall’s bedrock of eco luxury, the Scarlet, or its sister hotel, Bedruthan. Here you can relax in a cliff-top hot tub, rejuvenate in the Sensory Spa Garden, swim in the indoor and outdoor pools, and enjoy a massage or spa treatment. Day Spa experiences and deals including lunch or dinner are available at both.
Families can dip into the indoor and outdoor (summer only) swimming pools at The Park, where grown-ups can relax in the state-of-the-art sauna and steam room, and sip coffee in the poolside, glass-walled café.
Our favourite family activities on a beach day in Mawgan Porth are rock pooling and bodysurfing, followed by a round of crazy golf and pitch and putt. If you’re looking for something even more high octane where you can release your competitive spirit, get behind the wheel of a go kart on the nearby St Eval Kart Circuit.
On rainy days there’s plenty of indoor fun to be had at Trevarrian Holiday Park where you’ll find a four-lane Atlantic Lanes bowling alley alongside an indoor leisure complex with a pool, bar and soft play.
Most days of the week you can find local artists Kara and Dave Barker beavering away in their beachside art studio at Mawgan Porth. Putting the sea and the coast at the heart of their work, the pair create unusual and inspirational art pieces, many of them hand-cut and painted on locally sourced wood. More hand-crafted gifts made by the local community can be found on sale every Friday throughout summer at the craft market in the village hall.
For year-round shopping, the Create Gallery at Bedruthan sells a selection of sustainably designed objects and art from local artists. If it’s beach gear you’re after, deck yourself out at Betty’s Surf Shop, where you can find everything from wax and wetsuits, to beach clothing, souvenirs and surf skates.
From the finest local seafood to street food fresh from the grill, there are foodie delights for all tastes in Mawgan Porth.
Our favourite pop-up for a post-surf brunch and coffee, The Brunch Spot serves loaded brekkie baguettes, super salads, tasty toasties and gooey tiffins from a trailer outside the village hall. It’s a real local’s spot and the best tucker in the bay.
Another local gem is Off The Path Coffee Co, a delightful coffee stop and lunch garden tucked away in the valley between the beach on the way to St Mawgan. Look out for special music and world food events in summer.
Mawgan Porth’s iconic boozer by the beach, The Merrymoor Inn is the best spot to mingle with the locals over Cornish-brewed ales, traditional pub grub and live music in the sea-view garden.
From Fizz and Chips to Roasts on the Coast, Catch is the beachside restaurant that does it all. Relaxed and dog-friendly, but the prices do reflect the influx of celebs in town.
Whether you’re looking for a fruit-packed smoothie or chocolate-filled waffles to fuel your beach adventures, head to the Beach Box Café, where you can take-away tasty treats, relax on the roof-top terrace or hunker inside on mizzly Cornish beach days.
Sometimes you just want a glass of wine with a bowl of olives to graze on. Or a barista coffee with a finger-licking, freshly baked pastry. Or you might want a bottle of fine wine with a platter of street food or a stone-baked pizza. Either way, Muddle & Press provide the tipples in a classy beachside venue, where you can collect gourmet food of your choice from its neighbours.
Strike out along the cliff tops to see the rock giants rising from the sand at Bedruthan Steps, and make sure you stop for a hearty cream tea or sandwiches stuffed with Cornish ingredients at the family-run Carnewas Tearooms, based in a historic mining stable in the National Trust car park.
The cosy, 18th century Traveller’s Rest, nestled between Mawgan Porth and Watergate Bay, serves a decent selection of beers on tap and excellent pub grub using local ingredients. Dog-friendly to boot, it’s a favourite spot for Sunday carvery and game of pool table after a stomp along the coast path from the beach.
Coffee and cake beside the fire on a winter’s day, lazy lunches and big breakfasts after a surf. The family-friendly Kitchen by the Beach welcomes dogs, and has an indoor pool with a sauna and steam room, too.
It’s hard to believe the rugged, wave-hewn terrain of Mawgan Porth awaits just a few miles from the tourist hubs of Newquay and Padstow. Whether you pop down from your beach house in Porthcothan or Treyarnon, or bag an apartment beside the beach in Mawgan Porth, there’s really nowhere quite like it to slip into the authentic Cornish coastal lifestyle.
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